Horace Walker con Melchior Anderegg e la guida di Courmayeur Julien Grange il 30 giugno 1868. Magnifico itinerario in un’ambiente severo. Su questa montagna grandi alpinisti come Whymper, Croz, Walker, Grange e Rey hanno scritto pagine epiche dell’alpinismo. Pur essendo più basso del Monte Bianco, la scalata delle Jorasses, è tecnicamente più difficile ed è di maggior soddisfazione per gli alpinisti. La via normale è poco frequentata e si rivolge a scalatori di buon livello. Il panorama dalla vetta e veramente spettacolare, e domina tutta la catena del Bianco.


  • Day 1
    Departure from Courmayeur in Val Ferret from Planpincieux 1579 mt. In about 3h30 walking on the path, which in the final stretch is aided, you reach the Boccalatte refuge at 2803 Mt. The refuge was one of the first to be built on the Italian side of the Bianco in 1881. Dinner and overnight stay at the refuge.
  • Day 2
    Wake up at 0.30 am breakfast, 1.15 am departure for the climb. From the refuge, go up the glacier to the Rochers del Reposoir, continue on the rocky ridge with passages of the fourth degree. Cross the Whymper channel and continue on the glacier up to the rocky ridge which leads to the top in about 6 hours. For the descent, the same ascent route is used.
  • Average return times 12h with return to the valley
  • Total height difference uphill + 2629 mt.
  • Period from June to September
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The price includes

  • Assistance of the mountain guide, commonly used material.
  • Insurance that covers the emergency intervention in the event of an accident.

The fee does not include

  • The board and lodging in the refuge of the participants and the guide and anything not specified in the entry The price includes
  • Traveling by car

Technical difficulty


Physical training


  • harness
  • Maximum ice ax 60 cm
  • Classic crampons with anti-cocoon
  • High mountain boots
  • Helmet
  • Telescopic ski pole
  • Harness, ice ax, crampons, ski pole and helmet missing will be provided by the guide.


  • High mountain / glacier sunglasses
  • Sun cream and cocoa butter
  • Cap
  • High mountain gloves
  • Breathable t-shirt
  • Sweet life
  • Windstopper or fleece jacket
  • Waterproof jacket
  • Shoeller mountain pants
  • Mountain socks
  • Leggings


  • A tights
  • Ski mask
  • Lightweight spare gloves
  • A front lamp with new batteries
  • Small personal pharmacy (compeed, aspirin, high protection sunscreen)
  • Waterproof over trousers
  • Camera
  • 1 liter bottle or Thermos
  • Energy bars, dried fruit, chocolate, sandwich
  • Toothbrush and toothpaste
  • Paper towels
  • Sun hat
  • Fleece or goose down gillet
  • Ear plugs (useful in shelter)
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