Between Punta Hirondelles and Les Grandes Jorasses the first climbers found about twenty dead swallows at the foot of the hill, hence the name of the ridge. G. Winthrop Young with Josef Knubel and Courmayeur guide Laurent Coux on 11 August 1911 traveled the itinerary downhill for the first time. More than 36 climbing attempts were made between 1881 and 1927 by ropes of famous mountaineers of the time. I am after the First World War, the guide of Courmayeur Adolph Rey managed to overcome the famous crack that now takes his name. Until the 1950s, there were about twenty repetitions, now it has become a classic for high-level mountaineers.
Program
- Day 1
Departure from Courmayeur in Val Ferret from La Vachey 1642 Mt. The Gervasutti bivouac 2.870 mt. it is located in a remote and little frequented place, it takes about 3 h 30 to reach it. Dinner and overnight at the bivouac. - Day 2
Wake up at 0.30 am breakfast, 1.15 am departure for the climb. From the refuge, go up the usually cracked glacier in about 3 hours to reach the Colle des Hirondelles 3480 Mt. From here the climb becomes very complex with the characteristic Rey crack about twenty meters long. Passages of 4th and 5th degree and some artificial passages lead to the top part which ends with mixed passages, 6/8 hours from the Hirondelles hill. For the descent you use the normal way of ascent from the ref. Boccalatte.
The price includes
- Assistance of the mountain guide, commonly used material.
- Insurance that covers the emergency intervention in the event of an accident.
The fee does not include
- Food and accommodation also for the guide to the ref. Boccalatte, in the case of delays or fatigue in the descent and anything not specified in the item The price includes.
- Traveling by car
PERSONAL TECHNICAL MATERIAL
- harness
- Maximum ice ax 60 cm
- Classic crampons with anti-cocoon
- High mountain boots
- Helmet
- Telescopic ski pole
- Harness, ice ax, crampons, ski pole and helmet missing will be provided by the guide.
CLOTHING TO WEAR
- High mountain / glacier sunglasses
- Sun cream and cocoa butter
- Cap
- High mountain gloves
- Breathable t-shirt
- Sweet life
- Windstopper or fleece jacket
- Waterproof jacket
- Shoeller mountain pants
- Mountain socks
- Leggings
INSIDE THE BACKPACK
- A tights
- Ski mask
- Lightweight spare gloves
- A front lamp with new batteries
- Small personal pharmacy (compeed, aspirin, high protection sunscreen)
- Waterproof over trousers
- Camera
- 1 liter bottle or Thermos
- Energy bars, dried fruit, chocolate, sandwich
- Toothbrush and toothpaste
- Paper towels
- Sun hat
- Fleece or goose down gillet
- Ear plugs (useful in shelter)