S.L. Courtaud, E. Olivier with Courmayeur guides Adolphe and Enry Rey Magnificent route, the most beautiful and the most classic with the Peuterey crest on the southern side of Mont Blanc. It has some more difficult rock passages than the Peuterey, but it's a bit’ less long and delicate. The ridge clearly marks the watershed between the Fréney and Brouillard glaciers. IS’ it was the last of the great Mont Blanc ridges to be climbed. The inclination above Pic Eccles is considerable, but the rock is excellent. The top part that leads to M. Bianco di Courmayeur is very long and steep. For experienced mountaineers with excellent physical and technical preparation.


  • Day 1
    Departure from Courmayeur, by car to Visaille in Val Veny 1659 Mt. Climb (via ferrata) to the Monzino Refuge 2590 Mt. 2/3 hours. Stop for lunch, in the early afternoon departure for the Eccles 3850 Mt bivouac. The Brouillard glacier is often very cracked. From ref. Monzino 3/5 hours. Dinner and overnight at the bivouac.
  • Day 2
    Wake up at 2:30 breakfast and 3:00 departure. In the dark you go up to Pic Eccles, go around the top and go down to the namesake hill. From here the ridge begins, after a passage of IV continue on mixed always sustained until you reach the summit ridge that leads to M. Bianco di Courmayeur. Continue until you reach the top of the Bianco. For the descent there are several opportunities, usually it takes place on the normal ascent routes to Mont Blanc.
  • Average times for the summit from B. Eccles 8/10 hours, for the descent to Aig. Du Midì 4 hours
  • Total height difference uphill + 3200 mt.
  • Period from June to September
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The price includes

  • Assistance of the mountain guide, commonly used material.
  • Insurance that covers the emergency intervention in the event of an accident.

The fee does not include

  • Tickets for the descent by cable car to Chamonix. € 42
  • Lunch at the Monzino refuge
  • Anything not specified in the entry The price includes

Technical difficulty


Physical training


  • harness
  • Maximum ice ax 60 cm
  • Classic crampons with anti-cocoon
  • High mountain boots
  • Helmet
  • Telescopic ski pole
  • Harness, ice ax, crampons, ski pole and helmet missing will be provided by the guide.


  • High mountain / glacier sunglasses
  • Sun cream and cocoa butter
  • Cap
  • High mountain gloves
  • Breathable t-shirt
  • Sweet life
  • Windstopper or fleece jacket
  • Waterproof jacket
  • Shoeller mountain pants
  • Mountain socks
  • Leggings


  • A tights
  • Ski mask
  • Lightweight spare gloves
  • A front lamp with new batteries
  • Small personal pharmacy (compeed, aspirin, high protection sunscreen)
  • Waterproof over trousers
  • Camera
  • 1 liter bottle or Thermos
  • Energy bars, dried fruit, chocolate, sandwich
  • Toothbrush and toothpaste
  • Paper towels
  • Sun hat
  • Fleece or goose down gillet
  • Ear plugs (useful in shelter)
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