Mountain that rises between the Miage pass and the Bionnassay pass, mostly covered with ice. IS’ formed by the meeting of three ridges that give rise to as many walls. The ridge from the namesake hill to the top is truly elegant and sharp. First ascent was made by Edward-North Buxton with Chamonix guides Jean Pierre Cachat and Michel Payot on 28 July 1865. On skis it was first descended in 1969 by Silvain Saudan.


  • Day 1
    From Chanonix Les Houches by cable car to Bellvue 1770m, from here by train to Nid d'Aigles 2372m. From the nid d'aigles in 2 hours' walk you can reach the Tete Rousse refuge at 3167m. Dinner and overnight.
  • Day 2
    Wake up at 4.00 breakfast. 4.45 am departure for the climb. You descend on the Bionnasssay glacier to cross it towards the west, after the terminal the climb begins which takes place mainly in preserves. In about 4-5 hours you reach the top. The descent is very articulated, it takes place avoiding the seracs and crevasses which are numerous.
  • Average time for round trip 2 days
  • Total height difference uphill +1700 mt.
  • Total difference in height downhill -1700 mt.
  • Period from December to June
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The price includes

  • Assistance of the mountain guide, commonly used material.
  • Insurance that covers the emergency intervention in the event of an accident.

The fee does not include

  • Les Houches-Bellevue return cable car tickets + Guide
  • Bellevue- Nid d’Aigles return train tickets + Guide
  • Car transfers
  • Board and lodging for the participants and the guide and all that is not specified in the entry The price includes.

Technical difficulty ascent


Technical difficulty descent


Physical training


Objective dangers


  • harness
  • Maximum ice ax 60 cm
  • Classic crampons with anti-cocoon
  • Ski touring boots.
  • Think
  • Helmet
  • Telescopic ski pole

Harness, ice ax, crampons, avalanche beacon, ski pole and helmet missing will be provided by the guide.


  • High mountain / glacier sunglasses
  • Sun cream and cocoa butter
  • Cap
  • High mountain gloves
  • Breathable t-shirt
  • Sweet life
  • Windstopper or fleece jacket
  • Waterproof jacket
  • Ski pants for high mountains
  • Mountain socks


  • The nose is getting thinner
  • Ski mask
  • Lightweight spare gloves
  • Small personal pharmacy (compeed, aspirin, high protection sunscreen)
  • Camera
  • 1 liter bottle or Thermos
  • Energy bars, dried fruit, chocolate, sandwich ...
  • Paper towels
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