Lord Byron, the poet of English romanticism called the Matterhorn “the most noble rock of Europe”. The normal Italian route is the route used by the first climbers of this side, the guide of Valtournenche, Jean-Antoine Carrel who had the abbot and historian Aimé Gorret as a climbing partner. Today Despite modern times, the Matterhorn retains its charm unaltered, it is still a splendid climb, very aerial with rock passages up to grade IV. An ascent of great satisfaction, a peak that cannot be missing from the curriculum of a good climber.


  • Day 1
    From Cervinia climb to the Oriondé or Duke of Abbruzzi Refuge 2802 Mt. Two possibilities: by cable car to Plan Maison 2548 Mt. then cross diagonally to the refuge, or off-road on the farm road that leads from Cervinia to the refuge. From here you go up passing near the Carrel cross, from the Leone hill take the ridge that leads directly to the L. Amedeo di Savoia Refuge at 3830 Mt. Dinner and overnight at the refuge.
  • Day 2
    Sveglia alle ore 3:00, colazione ore 3:45 partenza per la scalata. Subito dietro il rifugio si trova la corda della "sveglia", tratti attrezzati si alternano a cenge, passaggi aerei. La scalata non è mai banale e sempre molto esposta. Per raggiungere la croce sulla vetta occorrono solitamente 3/4 ore. La discesa avviene sulla stessa via di salita.
  • Average times for round trip 8 - 10 hours
  • Total height difference, uphill + 1700 mt.
  • Period from June to September
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The price includes

  • Assistance of the mountain guide, commonly used material.
  • Insurance that covers the emergency intervention in the event of an accident.

The fee does not include

  • Cable car tickets Cervinia-Plan House.
  • Transfers by car, possible off-road climb to Rif. Duca degli Abbruzzi.

Technical difficulty


Physical training


  • harness
  • Maximum ice ax 60 cm
  • Classic crampons with anti-cocoon
  • High mountain boots
  • Helmet
  • Telescopic ski pole
  • Harness, ice ax, crampons, ski pole and helmet missing will be provided by the guide.


  • High mountain / glacier sunglasses
  • Sun cream and cocoa butter
  • Cap
  • High mountain gloves
  • Breathable t-shirt
  • Sweet life
  • Windstopper or fleece jacket
  • Waterproof jacket
  • Shoeller mountain pants
  • Mountain socks
  • Leggings


  • A tights
  • Ski mask
  • Lightweight spare gloves
  • A front lamp with new batteries
  • Small personal pharmacy (compeed, aspirin, high protection sunscreen)
  • Waterproof over trousers
  • Camera
  • 1 liter bottle or Thermos
  • Energy bars, dried fruit, chocolate, sandwich
  • Toothbrush and toothpaste
  • Paper towels
  • Sun hat
  • Fleece or goose down gillet
  • Ear plugs (useful in shelter)
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about any of our products or services.